Why go to Crete?

Why go to Crete? Walk and Cycle in Crete

Crete is one of the few places in Europe where you can walk along paths that take you over carpets of flowers through the day, swim in a warm sea on your return at the end of the afternoon and enjoy a good meal in a taverna in the evening. All in peace, tranquillity and complete safety.

...

Click this link to see larger image

Often as you walk you cannot avoid treading on the flowers that carpet the ground so thickly. Orchids and iris grow in profusion in natural rock gardens that would win the gold medal if they could be transported to the Chelsea Flower Show. You can cycle along small paved roads or mountain tracks all day without meeting another vehicle.

The Lamergeir, or bearded vulture, may be rare but we have frequently seen it soaring over the mountain ridges. One day we sat by a cliff edge eating our lunch and five bearded vultures drifted past in procession. We were so enthralled by their closeness that we did not move to photograph them. The sea eagle has flapped heavily past below us several times as we walked on the sea cliffs.

Golden Orioles add a splash of colour to the olive groves and often the only sound is bird song. Frogs and toads keep up a chorus where springs bubble out of the rocks and the flocks of sheep and goats take their own carillon music with them.

As you walk you stumble over ruins that may be 2000 years old, disturb pottery fragments under foot that may be 5000 years old. Venetian arches and doorways are a feature of many of the mountain villages. Churches may be ancient Greek shrines or display the skill of Byzantine architects or the 20th century craftsman.

...

Click this link to see larger image

The Cretan people are mostly friendly and although many are poor by western standards are proud of their independence and their traditions. Many of the walks have been made memorable by the hospitality offered us. I hope you will find the same but please do not abuse their generosity and do not outstay your welcome. An elderly villager who offers the walker a glass of wine and a cake would be offended if anything were offered in return other than gratitude and a little conversation.

...

Click this link to see larger image

Try to learn a little Greek before you go as this greatly increases the pleasure of such meetings.

It has always been a rewarding experience to walk or cycle in Crete. Your visit means prosperity for the Cretans as well as enjoyment for yourself. Please look after Crete. It is such a special island. Help keep it that way for its own children.

In 2016 it is now 30 years since I first started walking in Crete. The flowers and the birdsong are still the same. The roads and tracks are still very quiet in April - the best month for walking and to see the flowers. There are now far more goats and sheep and fences are everywhere. These are a barrier to people as much as to goats, and unless it is a recognised path, you can no longer roam where you wish. There are many tracks and google maps provides the best overview. Even some tracks up or off the mountain have security gates at the end. We have climbed one or two! Dogs are now largely behind the fences, but there are now far more of them and they can be a serious problem! We nearly got attacked by one group of four large dogs, but on the second occasion a very large dog ran out from a shed and bit one of our group. Luckily its first bite was on a metal thermos flask in a rucksac. Its second bite left a large bruise and teeth marks. The owner responded rather slowly to our shouting before putting the dog back on its chain, and then wandered off.

We haven't been able to check all the paths. Google Maps is now your best friend. Trace your planned route in Google beforehand. Almost any sort of path or track can be recognised in the map, satellite view. If you cannot see it, it doesn't exist. Assume that shortcuts through olive groves will no longer be open to you.

A GPS is also very useful, but the best maps for these - the openStreetMap walking and cycling maps show only a few tracks and paths. It is possible to create custom maps for some GPS units from the Google satellite images - these provide the best detail.

Even on recognised paths the gates are sections of steel mesh wired in place, or tied top middle and bottom with rope. Make sure that you take the time to replace all these ties securely, even if you think you may come back the same way later.

Previous: -

Author's Introduction

Next: -

Introduction to Crete